ok, a few different things. 1. we have a thread specifically for this topic(making your own dream mask) so mods, please move this. 2. I am an electronics person and the kvasar is a hard project…esp for a newbie to it. the sensors are hard to come by(when I was trying it I had to call the company and request a sample). I had no success with getting the mask to work and I have yet to hear anyone having success building it besides the author.
But if you find anything cool in your research on dream masks, feel free to post it in the main thread. Also, feel free to pm me about it anytime, I find this area quite interesting.
2. I am an electronics person and the kvasar is a hard project.
I have built the Kvasar and I will verify that it works fine, but no LD’s yet. No offense intended, rarebreed, but if you are an electronics guy, you must not be very good at it. It is an easy project - even for a beginner!. I created a PC board in Cadsoft Eagle. I can post my files if anyone is interested.
The sensors are hard to come by(when I was trying it I had to call the company and request a sample.)
I used one of the alternate sensors posed on the website (Sharp IS489). it is available at Digi-Key for about $1.00. You can also use the Honeywell sensor - also available at Digi-Key for about $1.50 The original sensor is made by Hammamatsu. Hammamatsu don’t sell through distributors and their minimum order is 50 pieces.
A few things, 1. I suppose you are right about the Kvasar…I kinda tried it before I even knew much about electronics, and the main part that is “very hard” was the sensor for me, getting it was a pain(I got the original) and they weren’t very easy to work with/accurate.
I suppose I said I hard time with it just because I never got it to work before I scrapped it. That and a lot of people on here seem to get scared as soon as they see they need to program a pic.
Ok, enough with the defensive, I know you meant no harm…just wanted to say that although I still am an amateur, I am quite good at it. Its my future major in college and future job. But yea, thanks for the info on the site in case anyone(myself included) wants to have a go at the kvasar, and yes, the site does seem to be dead. I wonder if there is a backup somewhere…
I would be interested in talking some more with you though, as Im always interested in talking to other tech people with interests in fields such as lucid dreaming. extends peace offering Im going to send you a pm to keep any chat-talk off the board.
Yes, I was a bit harsh and I apologize. Its just that I have heard so many negatives about the Kvasar - “The sensor is hard to find” - “uncomfortable”, etc. all problems that can be fixed if you read the directions and the manual very carefully.
Hey Mods, shall I start a new thread for the kvasar (the other is quite dated), post here, or use the old thread? (The Kvasar is “building your own LD goggles”)
This may get moved but I will post anyway. To all of those interested, I have The schematic, manual, and both versions of the firmware for the Kvasar. I have also designed a .sch and .brd files in Cadsoft Eagle if anybody wants to etch a pc board. I will post the files if anybody is interested. Let me know. Or if the mods would be happier, you can pm me if you want the files.
I used the Sharp IS489 for the sensor. It can be obtained through Digi-Key for about $1.00. I was also considering designing a “discrete” version of the sensor. I could add an op-amp, and a Schmidt trigger to the board. Then just mount the photodiode in the goggles and PRESTO - instant sensor.
The sensor should be arranged in a semicircle about 1 inch diameter. The sensor on the top, the IRLED on the bottom, and the visible LED on the outside. (quite tricky!)
Also adjusting the IRLED brightness is tricky. Too bright and it can’t detect the changes - too dim and it can’t detect at all. There is a window in between where it works perfectly. You can use a remote to test it. You also must calibrate it before each use.
Those of you who don’t know how to program a PIC may have a hard time with the Kvasar. There are freeware programmers all over the Internet, but they do require at least a basic knowledge of electronics to build.
I will help anybody to the best of my ability who wants to build the Kvasar. I think it has great potential. Especially for those who can’t afford to spend $500 for a professionally built model (the Kvasar costs about $20 to build).
Good luck to all LDers. I am still looking for my first.
The main chip used in Nate’s design is a PIC16LF628A. The main chip used in the Kvasar is a PIC16F84A. The two chips have identical pinouts and could be interchanged for many applications. The 628A is a much better chip and it costs about half as much money. There are 4MHz and 20MHz versions of both chips. The 20MHz chips are not necessary for any projects mentioned in this thread, so buy the 4MHz version. They are much less expensive.
Both chips can be purchased through Digi-Key, Mouser, etc. for just a few dollars. Check the Microchip website for datasheets. If you are a student or a business you can get free samples.
Hey computerman, Thanks for all the info! Im still quite wrapped up in a different project, but if I ever come back to the kvasar all your info will deffinitely help. One little idea though, at the beggining startup of the kvasar, couldnt you have the chip slowly modify th irled brightness through pwm? Make it so you put the mask on, turn it on, then move your eyes back and forth until it beeps or blinks saying it has auto calibrated. Just an idea.
P.S. about my other project, do you have much experience with serial lcds? Mine used to work fine and is now having problems. Im having a really hard time debugging it too, cant figure out what is wrong with it.
That is kinda how it calibrates. To calibrate, you put the goggles on and push button B. You will hear one beep and the left LED will light. Do that with your eyes open. Then you close your eyes and push button A. The left LED will go out and calibration will start. Shortly after you will hear 2 beeps. Then push button C. DONE. The whole calibration process takes about 10 seconds.
I may have found another alternate sensor as well. I will test it and let you know what results I get. Cross your fingers!!
As for serial LCD’s, I have not worked too much with LCD’s and what work I have done they are all 4-bit parallel - But we are getting off-topic. If you want to discuss your project more, please PM me.
Just letting everybody know that the Kvasar website is back online - for how long who knows. I have created an archive of it just in case it goes down again.
Ok, sounds like a pretty good way to calibrate the device and good luck with the sensor. Yea, I will keep my project off this thread, just wanted to ask that real quick since I was at a dead end. Also thanks for creating an archive, its always a pain when something good seems to vanish from the web. Maybe you could put up a link to that archive/all the different files for it you have accumulated(modified source code, pcb, etc.)
Im from Hungary, I dont speak englis too good so I somethime write wrong.
Plese anybody say to me: The Kvasar is work good?
I has made 1 of this… but not work. I think ther is a problem whit transistors because i tur on the machine and all LED-s are lighting and the speaker try to beep.
I use the HLC2701 sensor. I programed the PIC whith the moded program.
(Sorry for the errors!)
So… I been wondering, how do you program a PIC chip? Do you take it in to an electronics place and they’ll charge you to do it? I’m interested in making this one.
Edit: Wait, I found a link that tells you how to make a programmer. Don’t know how much it costs, though.
sorry. I guess Ill answer them real quick. To the best of my knowledge, I dont know of any place that will program the chips for you. The creator of the mask you linked to, however, will send you all the components for a pretty cheap amount. As to programming chips on your own, just google around there are tons of different programmers out there ranging from quite simple for only a single chip to a bit more complex to be able to program many different kinds of chips. You should look into picaxe chips if you want to make your life really easy, they are normal pic chips with a bootloader put on it that makes it easy to program (though you are limited to their basic language only). Good luck.
I’m not doing anything as fancy as a DIY Kvasar, but it might be interesting still. I made a simple digital timer with a cell phone vibrator, that goes off at set times in the sleep cycle. I’m planning on adding GSR sensing to it once I get enough data about how the resistance varies with my setup. If you’re interested in following along, check out:
